In Melaka we decided to go to the public pool, which was this gorgeous Olympic size, 12 ft deep, outdoor pool that cost 50 cents admission. There is a strict dress code, only lycra, fully covered and our swimsuits were looking a bit ragged so we did get some looks. But we could have been stared at because I think it is a rare site to see a Western family take a dip in the local pool. Also, there were no ladders or steps for getting out, so that was tricky and awkward. But most confusing for us was that there seemed to be serious lap swimmers, both kids and adults, as well as classes and instruction, but absolutely no lane lines or demarcations as to what direction people were supposed to go. People swam length wise and width wise. Staying by the wall became the safest course for us. It was like driving in Asia, there are rules, but we do not know what they are and it seems a bit chaotic. It is hard not to observe the scene and think that simple lane lines would really make it much more enjoyable. But, I have to admonish my American propensity for organization and order and realize that there are many ways to do things, and this is how you swim in Melaka.
The above map is for Ben Bochner
Melaka was originally covered with these giant trees and jungle before being developed. The remaining trees help me imagine this land before cities. The car in the background gives the size perspective.
The history of Melaka saddens me. Colonialism is always tragic, acts of greed and evil against families. Originally a small fishing village that was fertile (you can still see the huge trees that must have covered this region) founded by Parameswara, the first Sultan in 1400. Melaka became a thriving and strategic international port city that dominated trade and was a necessary stopping point for ships from China and India. In 1511 the Portuguese decided to take over Melaka and attacked and conquered the city (murdering or selling the Muslim inhabitants into slavery). Instead of taking over commerce successfully, they disrupted the trade system and Asian trade became scattered over a number of ports. The Dutch decided to attack the Portuguese and took over Melaka in 1641, making more of a mess of things (while murdering and enslaving anyone in their way) and, finally, Melaka was ceded to the British in 1824 who neglected it completely, focusing on Singapore as it’s primary port. After a few years under Japan’s rule in the early 1940s, it was finally declared as part of an independent region in 1956! In 1989 it was declared a historical city, followed in 2008 with a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.
Now Melaka is a bustling tourist destination that caters primarily to Chinese tourists (so much so that Chinese is more useful than Malay, so we are back to speaking English). It actually feels like a small Chinese city. People jam the small winding streets of the old Portuguese prewar buildings in Jonkers (Chinatown), ogle the ruins of Catholic churches and ride loud colorful bicycle carts decorated in HelloKity and blasting Despacito. The once vibrant river that carried all the trading boats is now a murky river littered with sediment and trash. There are tourist cruises that take people up and down the river, but they go so fast that one is unable to enjoy the unique views and I could not hear the narrator that was telling the history of Melaka as the pop music played loudly. But, I have to say the breeze was glorious. Although it gets sticky and hot during the day, the early evenings are graced with a cooling wind off the ocean that is so refreshing (as well as a Tiger beer of course!)
Melaka is known for its high density of museums. We went to see the Body exhibit, the one that has desiccated and silicone injected real bodies displayed and talks about the mechanism of the body. While the museum staff was very friendly, the exhibits were odd, the English was clunky, there were very unscientific proclamations about the differences between the genders (men are goal oriented, women are fat but beautiful… ) We noticed that all of the genitalia was covered by paper tags!
Malaysia is a multicultural and multiconfessional country, whose official religion is Islam. As visitors we experience this in the following ways. I would say that 98% of Malay women’s heads are covered by the Hijab (although sometimes there is a stylish baseball cap turned backwards on top). There is daily call to prayer that is played through out the city, a haunting and spiritual sound that I love. Everyone takes off shoes going inside, sometimes even restaurants (I totally understand, and seeing the bathroom situation which utilizes a lot of water, no shoes inside is welcome). It is difficult to find alcoholic beverages in normal hawker stands and restaurants and there is a general modesty in clothing (again appreciated by the sun fearing redhead that prefers all skin covered anyhow). Also there are few dogs. Hearing about and experiencing the anti Muslim rhetoric that is buzzing through the US, I would expect to be on the receiving end of general weariness and mistrust. This would seem a natural response to our country’s shameful behavior of late. However I am constantly in awe of the capacity of humans for kindness. We have received nothing but smiles, welcoming nods, helpful guidance and knowing glances (when as a family we are having a moment of struggle). One of the reasons we wanted to travel was to truly be peace ambassadors and in our small way combat the hate that pervades the air space. We are consistently overwhelmed by the generosity of spirit we encounter daily.
The crown jewel of Melaka is the night street market, Jonkers street, which thankfully is closed to traffic and happens weekly Friday through Sunday. We spent a lot of time walking these streets, in search of just the right trinket and tasting odd foods. There was a lot of schlock, plastic toys and cheap jewelry. We were rewarded with the discovery of a large stage that hosted Karaoke. Women in their 70s belting out Chinese songs to an audience of seated Chinese men and women of the same age. It is these scenes of daily life that I live for and cannot capture on film.
Food shapes our daily experience. I think the kids are eating a majority of rice, bread (roti) and fruit. They do not like how spicy the food is. We often wander into street stalls and order something, shrug our shoulders, not really knowing what we will get. We lucked out and our airbnb was one block walk from amazing local food which we frequented. Often the wait staff was less than 10 yo (parents did not speak English), but somehow really competent. There is something a bit unsettling about a steely eyed 8 yo opening and serving a beer.
We went to Little India in Melaka and were introduced to Banana leaf curry. Since we had no idea how to order, we ended up getting way too much food. We had a very conscientious and motherly male waiter who shook his head when it was clear we going to be unable to finish. The food was great, but we over ate so the experience left us feeling a bit ill.
Sometimes you just need a taste of Western food. We have gone to McDonald’s once. We found a Hipster cafe called the Daily Fix in Jonkers that was expensive, but a flavor of Portland.
After Melaka we head to Kuala Lumpur for a couple of days. We have vaccinations to get there! A three hour bus ride.
Bochner Family Adventure 