The sounds of Buddhism

Mixing with our dreams in the early morning is the sound of deep drumming and gongs from outside  This morning I set the alarm for 0450 and set out to observe the Almsgiving ritual.  Originally I stated that there are 33 temples here, but I think that number only refers to the amount in the old part of the city.  There are over 80 in Luang Prabang proper.  Buddhism has been the prominent spiritual belief system of Laotians since the 14th century.  A large part of the male population joins a monastery and becomes a monk for a period of their lives, months or years.  Boys as young as 7 become monks.

The tak bat is a daily morning ritual where monks walk barefooted, single file, with the eldest leading throughout the neighborhood and collect food from the local people.  Women sit on stools or kneel on blankets and place a pinch of sticky rice, fruit or candy in the alms bowls that the monks carry.  The ceremony is done in silence to not disturb the monks meditative silence. However, I did catch some relaxed banter between the local women and the elder monks.  As well, the roosters are vocal at sunrise.

This interaction presents a symbolic connection between the lay Buddhist and the spiritual sentient being, or the Buddhist monk or nun.  The act of giving food to the monks shows a humbleness and respect in the presence of secular society while presenting lay people with the opportunity to make merit.  The monks do eat some of this food at breakfast, but also give it away to needy families in the community.

I walked around Luang Prabang at 5am, not knowing when I would see the monks.  It was dark, rainy and cold.  As I walked throughout the city, I would catch sight of the chanting monks, walking with umbrellas.  I ended up back at the corner of our guest house at about 6:30 where two Lao women sat on stools.  I watched from afar as lines of saffron robed monks passed them and received alms.  I watched as young monks struggled to carry their Alms bowls and stray dogs followed the procession.

I did not get too close or participate in the Almsgiving.  There is already a threat of the city shutting down this ritual as the behavior of some tourists can be very intrusive and offensive.  In my walks I saw the parade of silver vans packed with Chinese tourists speeding to the main walkway near the temple.  As I walked by this temple, even though the monks had not arrived, the din of chatter among the tourists erased any feelings of peace.  On foot, wandering around corners I caught glimpses of townspeople giving Alms.  Taking part in this daily ceremony as they have always done and hopefully will continue to do.  Tomorrow Addie, Jack and Cork will join me at 0630 to observe the Almsgiving ceremony.  As a family we are studying Buddhism.  These real life experiences cement our understanding of this complex spiritual paradigm.  World schooling in action!

Alms receiving Bowl