We traveled by train to Shuzenji, about 2 hours south of Tokyo, on the Izu peninsula. Although not far from Tokyo in distance, it is another world. We are staying in a small village that reminds us of both Italy and Nepal, narrow paths and roads, tidy, but older buildings and houses. In Japan the communal spaces are sacred and cared for Our accomadations are a cute friendly hostel that is clean and simple. However, I think I have aged out of communal living and have no desire to make conversation with fellow travelers or share the shower with 10 strangers. Addie and I are sleeping in the female dormitory which is a small room with wooden sleeping capsules. Addie being close to the ideal Japanese stature and body weight is the only one who is comfortable. I have to turn my body every half hour to prevent skin breakdown while sleeping on these very thin futons:)
The boys have their own room, but are struggling sleeping on the floor. We wake up feeling like we were in a car crash in our sleep.
Yesterday, after breakfast of pickled vegetables, miso and Onigiri (delicious: Oishi!) we took the bus high into the hills to hike the paths and catch a glimpse of Mt.Fuji. This land is verdant and even the forests appear manicured. Large bamboo forests mix companionably with other trees to create a lush magical landscape.
Our first night we found a restaurant that was surprisingly good. Our new criteria for choosing places to eat is if they have tables with chairs. Sitting on floor is a kind of torture. Jack and Cork’s bodies just don’t fold into cris-cross apple sauce, which is the expected way to sit. We all wish we had done more hip opener exercises before traveling here. The owners of the restaurant (also waiter and cook) attempted to instruct and help the boys sit correctly, but gave up when they saw that injury would incur if they continued.
If you ever want to feel very big, visit a country built for men that average 5’3 and 130lbs. We crowd into spaces not made for us, jostle for space that does not exist. Even the cars and trucks are miniature, darling really. If I ever come into a large some of money I am importing one. In addition, perhaps because of the limited land space that Japan occupies, people are adept at taking up less space. They speak quietly, bow, movements small and purposful. The traditional dress of kimono and wooden shoes restrict movement and women have to walk in very small almost shuffeling steps.
Addie and I embraced our courage and went to the local Onsen. We were so desparate for a shower after a hot humid day of travel that 300 yen and mild embarrassment felt like a fair price. Quickly reading up on Onsen etiquette, we entered the family run establishment. In Japan, and while traveling in general, you have to pick up on cues quickly and just go forth. There is even less English in the country side so the word Onsen and pointing down the hallway was our only directions. In Japan you attend the public baths nude and must shower before and after. We were unprepared for the line of showers next the pool intself and did not know we were supposed to sit on the plastic stools while cleansing. However, we were so busy avoiding eye contact, that we did not notice any stink eyes. On the whole, the experience was delightful.
Bochner Family Adventure 