Bochner Family Adventure

Giri is the duty of everyone in Japanese society to ensure social harmony. A very strong cultural value held, is to be thoughtful and respectful of others. As a visitor you really feel this gentle welcome and genuine kindness from strangers.

Our favorite restaurant was run by an older couple and their adult daughter. They were incredibly nice and created a wonderful breakfast with such care. Many restaurants in Japan have eclectic assortments of toys or movie posters. This establishment had a huge assortment of record albums and a record player. Cork chose Bossa Nova for breakfast.

On the whole, the default in Japanese culture is politeness and generosity of spirit. Our hostel host went out of his way to give us information about the area and 711 clerks smile in greeting and bow when we leave. At this restaurant the owners presented us with presents of handmade bags. The people in Japan have been really nice and patient with our Google Translate assisted conversations.

Traditional breakfast of Miso, pickled turnips, fried pork, tofu and rice accompanied by local tea. All three of the staff watched us intently as we ate. I was given a spoon as my chopstick skills were found lacking:)

In Japan restaurants hide in plain sight, often secreting a world of delicious food inside. This unassuming storefront hid a bustling scene inside and served the best fried rice we have ever eaten.

We visited the most popular tourist attraction in Japan. It was hot, muggy and packed with visitors from all around the world. We are not used to being around so many people and the experience was diminished by the crowds. There are over 30,000 Shinto shrines in Japan and traditionally people gather to pray for bountiful harvests, business prosperity, the safety of their home and family. This iconic shrine, built 1300 years ago is now a must see Kyoto instagram moment. I did not see a lot of praying happening. Despite the crowds I was able to capture the beauty of the space in small moments. I can only imagine how peaceful and special this place would be quiet and empty of loud tourists.

We saw Japanese and western tourists wearing Kimonos. Traditional Kimono dress is on the decline in Kyoto, so in an effort to bring back the practice the city subsidizes establishments to give a discount if you are wearing a Kimono.

Fushimi Inari Taisha is the largest Shinto shrine in Japan. It is dedicated to the goddess of rice Inari and more broadly to wealth. The beautiful complex unveils through a walk in a valley delineated by thousands of vermilion torii gates. The path up the mountain gets less crowded the higher you get but we ran out of steam an hour in.

Tradition says the Shinto kami Inari sends messages by fox—きつね or 狐 in Japanese—pronounced key-tsu-neh in English.

Foxes—including those directly serving Inari—may help or hurt, provide benevolence or malevolence. Coming and going with little notice, they receive both credit and blame for things they may or may not do.

While they can shift their shapes—they like masquerading as humans for mischief—they must always speak the truth.

The torii gates are funded by wealthy businessmen and corporations, on the back of each of the structures, the patron’s name and date of installation are written. It costs between $1,200 and $10,000 for the most visible, and with a several-years long waiting line to see it built. Not being able to read Japanese, the aesthetic is not lost to simple advertising:)

We traveled by train to Shuzenji, about 2 hours south of Tokyo, on the Izu peninsula. Although not far from Tokyo in distance, it is another world. We are staying in a small village that reminds us of both Italy and Nepal, narrow paths and roads, tidy, but older buildings and houses. In Japan the communal spaces are sacred and cared for Our accomadations are a cute friendly hostel that is clean and simple. However, I think I have aged out of communal living and have no desire to make conversation with fellow travelers or share the shower with 10 strangers. Addie and I are sleeping in the female dormitory which is a small room with wooden sleeping capsules. Addie being close to the ideal Japanese stature and body weight is the only one who is comfortable. I have to turn my body every half hour to prevent skin breakdown while sleeping on these very thin futons:)

The boys have their own room, but are struggling sleeping on the floor. We wake up feeling like we were in a car crash in our sleep.

Yesterday, after breakfast of pickled vegetables, miso and Onigiri (delicious: Oishi!) we took the bus high into the hills to hike the paths and catch a glimpse of Mt.Fuji. This land is verdant and even the forests appear manicured. Large bamboo forests mix companionably with other trees to create a lush magical landscape.

Our first night we found a restaurant that was surprisingly good. Our new criteria for choosing places to eat is if they have tables with chairs. Sitting on floor is a kind of torture. Jack and Cork’s bodies just don’t fold into cris-cross apple sauce, which is the expected way to sit. We all wish we had done more hip opener exercises before traveling here. The owners of the restaurant (also waiter and cook) attempted to instruct and help the boys sit correctly, but gave up when they saw that injury would incur if they continued.

If you ever want to feel very big, visit a country built for men that average 5’3 and 130lbs. We crowd into spaces not made for us, jostle for space that does not exist. Even the cars and trucks are miniature, darling really. If I ever come into a large some of money I am importing one. In addition, perhaps because of the limited land space that Japan occupies, people are adept at taking up less space. They speak quietly, bow, movements small and purposful. The traditional dress of kimono and wooden shoes restrict movement and women have to walk in very small almost shuffeling steps.

Addie and I embraced our courage and went to the local Onsen. We were so desparate for a shower after a hot humid day of travel that 300 yen and mild embarrassment felt like a fair price. Quickly reading up on Onsen etiquette, we entered the family run establishment. In Japan, and while traveling in general, you have to pick up on cues quickly and just go forth. There is even less English in the country side so the word Onsen and pointing down the hallway was our only directions. In Japan you attend the public baths nude and must shower before and after. We were unprepared for the line of showers next the pool intself and did not know we were supposed to sit on the plastic stools while cleansing. However, we were so busy avoiding eye contact, that we did not notice any stink eyes. On the whole, the experience was delightful.

No matter how hard we try, we wake up at 5 am. Jet-leg is sneaky. Otherwise we feel fine, except suddenly we are awake. Tokyo is not an early riser. As we leave the hotel in search of breakfast and activity we stumble upon cool discoveries.

Tokyo does not have a large street art scene, graffiti is punishable by 5 years in jail. However there are cool murals painted on the security metal doors while shops are closed.

Ueno park is an urban oasis established in 1873, 13 acres of green space, over 8000 trees and a large lotus pond. It is heavily used by joggers and families. Apparently it is also home to the largest homeless population in Tokyo, but I saw a small group of friendly zoned out Japanese playing music and partying gently. A very different vibe from the Meth fueled anger we see on Portland streets.

For the past two evenings, Addie has done her 5 mile run while we walk the loop around the park. We are getting our travelling legs, in all ways. Over 25K steps daily. Our feet hurt.

There is a large bridge that elevates the walkway connecting Ueno’s business district with the east and west sides of JR Ueno Station and Ueno Park. It is wonderful to be high above the hustle and bustle. Yesterday the weather cooled a bit and the breeze felt on the walkway was delicious.

It is a bit of a challenge to dine here. There is not a whole lot of English and menus are difficult to decipher. Also, restaurants tend to have their doors shut, and you have to slide it open to peek inside.

On our first night we found a very small restaurant a short walk from our hotel. It appeared closed, but inside was a bustling small interior decorated densely with manga, action figures, basketball jerseys, every inch filled with colorful paraphernalia of every sort.

The owner was over the top friendly. The air inside was warm and thick. Loud Japanese rock videos played on the TV screen at the end of the dining room. I was grateful for my very cold Sapporo. Our food was filling and flavorful. It was an interesting start to our adventure but I looked forward to sleep.

Our first impressions. Orderly and efficient. There are signs everywhere telling you the correct and therefore the incorrect way to do things. At immigration, the attendant beckons you forward in line like a theater docent, quiet and polite. No yelling and chastising like JFK or LAX. There was an Iphone left behind and the airport staff just held it up over his head and waited until someone claimed it.

We are staying in the Ueno area, which is part of the historical “low city”, working class and modest older buildings. In the evening the neighborhood feels empty and pedestrians wait at crosswalks, abiding by the red no walk signal even though there is no traffic for blocks. Bicycles rule, and easily outnumber cars. They zig-zag through pedestrians deftly, elegant women in professional attire and parents with children in seats in front and back. There are very few helmets among them. The weather is 90 and humid and our number one task is to find dinner and go to sleep after our 20 hr journey from Portland!