Bochner Family Adventure

We decided to take a bicycle tour out to the countryside.  It was a splurge financially but there is no way that we could undertake the trip on our own.  We rode down a maze of small streets and alleys, travelled to the countryside outside of Chiang Mai.  The traffic was unsettling at times, often we were in between two moving vehicles, but we made it.  Addie did crash her bike on the country lane, going to fast around the corner, and she emerged with road burn, but otherwise okay.  We had decent bikes and helmets which is hard to come by.  In total we covered 38 km.  At one point we were amongst motorbikes and cars, going down a busy market street.  It was exhilarating to really be in it.

Back in Oregon we were those people who did not have a cell phone or smart phone.  Neither one of us felt the need and did not value it enough to pay the expense. It was very irritating to our friends and family. However, once we started traveling in Asia, we quickly discovered how useful and necessary a smart phone was.  Our life is very dependent on the internet while travelling.  We arrange accommodation, communicate with our volunteer hosts and connect with friends and family both back home and here.  I purchased a Samsung Galaxy 7+ in Vietnam and my life was forever changed.  There is no going back.  Since I have not used smart phones for these last ten years, my learning curve was steep.  However after having it for almost two months, I have learned how to use it and find it invaluable in my daily life.

So last night, we took a GRAB car home (Asia’s Uber).  When we arrived home at our guest house, I did not have my phone.  Panic!  I felt near tears.  Realizing it was in the GRAB car, we looked up the company, emailed a lost item request.  Not having a phone, I had a friend call it, but the ringer was off as we had been in a movie (Jumanji–which was a super fun film).  I felt hopeless.

Early the next morning Aiden, our friend and roommate at the guesthouse, saved the day.  We were able to locate the last location of the phone through the miracles of GPS and Google.  It pinged in a neighborhood about 30 minutes outside of Chiang Mai.  We hopped on the motorbike with only GPS and optimism. 

In retrospect we should have at least downloaded the GRAB receipt with the driver’s name or some translated Thai phrases indicating what our goal was.  We found the neighborhood and proceeded to walk around looking for a Mitsubishi (all I could remember). We asked newly awake Thai people who walked by us or curiosly emerged from their houses to look at us,  if they spoke English and mimed driving a GRAB car and losing a phone (difficult to convey through hand gestures).  The task at hand seemed both ludicrous and impossible.  However, Aiden was not daunted, having had experience working at an NGO in Sierra Leon during the Ebola crisis, finding a cell phone in a random Thai neighborhood without a shared language, no wi-fi or additional information about the GRAB driver was just a fun morning activity.

we traveled many of these roads

two women we harassed into helping us

Laughing is better than crying

Eureka, I remembered the license had a 7 and 4 in it

However after three hours, and with the help of strangers, and the luck of whatever god is out there looking out for lost items, we were able to locate the car, wake up the girlfriend, and at last, the Samsung phone was returned to me.  It was an unbelievable adventure.

My faith in the kindness of the Thai people remains steadfast.

Sweet women that tried to help us

And a big thankyou to Aiden, who was unhesitating in his willingness to help me and never faltered in his belief that we would find the phone.  In fact his words were, “I think we have a pretty good chance of finding it, I feel confident.”  And we did find it.  Crazy.  The power of positive thinking and GPS.

Even though there was no snow or presents under the tree, we had a great Christmas.  Our present was attending the elephant camp earlier this month so we did not exchange gifts. We went to our friends house for Christmas, and Vaida who is from Lithuania was able to set a elegant table with wine, bread, cheese and smoked meats.  We had a lovely time with them.

I went to Free Yoga in the park in the morning, exercising my Zen to ignore the flies tickling my legs and the near swooping of pigeons. The practicality of yoga outside is better on paper than in reality.  On Christmas day both of our families went to Paak Dang, a seafood restaurant near the river.  We splurged and had a really great meal.

Afterwards we all went to our Hostel and watched Elf on the big screen.  The owners of the hostel put on a large BBQ and hung lights for the celebration.  Christmas music was playing and we drank whisky, talked with other young travelers from Isreal and the US, and nibbled on the cookies and chocolate given to us from Vaida for Christmas.  Alex drew henna tattoos on are skin (a gift from Vaida).  It was festive and happy.  It will me a memorable Christmas!

Songthaew ride

Long trip

We took the train to Lampang (50 baht one way), about 2 hours south of Chiang Mai.  It is hard to leave town if you do not have motorbikes or a car, and train or bus is our only option.  With our friends Alex, Aiden (Australian) and Roland (French) we went on this little adventure.  Lampang was extremely underwhelming but we were able to take a songtheaw (covered blue truck) to the “Unseen Temple”  1.5 hours outside of town.  We then entered the Chae Son National Park and walked the steep steps up to the temple.  The views from the temple’s perch were awesome.  The temple itself was simple, but beautiful.  Given the remoteness and difficulty of seeing this temple, there were very few people visiting which lent the area a feeling of sacredness that is missing when seeing temple’s with hundreds of other tourists.

The view from the temple is of the rolling Thung Thung Valley below. Thirteen years ago the white stupas were built on the cliffs by a dedicated Lampang monk and 46 workers, who spent two years carrying up materials on foot, daily, until its completion.  The dedication to spirituality in this modern day of conveniences is inspiring.

The distinctive base sound of the gongs rang through out our exploration of this temple.  I felt the deep sound in my body and it was calming and peaceful.

(Current exchange rate about 30 Thai baht to 1 US dollar)

A Blog Post for foodies!  (A request from my Auntie Heather, photos and thoughts about the many meals we are having in Northern Thailand)

As with life in the States, our days revolve around our main activity, eating.  Unlike home, we eat out almost entirely.  Normally we skip breakfast and have our first meal of the day around noon.  However now we are in a guesthouse that provides breakfast (sticky coconut rice, mango and hard-boiled egg)  Common Thai fare that you can find everywhere consists of Curry, StirFry, Noodles and Papaya salad which can be purchased with rice for 40-60 baht ( less than $2).  Mango smoothies or ice coffee 30-50 baht.  We try to save money by not buying drinks as they effectively double our meal’s cost.  The kids love Green Curry and get it where ever we go.  “mai pet” not spicy is Addie’s preference.  My favorites are the stir fried Morning Glory and tofu with Som Tom (Papaya salad).  We plan to take a cooking class in the near future and hope to learn how to make the green curry.

There is a small restaurant across from our apartment that we frequented almost daily.  The portions were just right and without drinks we could all eat for under $6.  You walk into Tang Nueng which is largely open aired and constructed with touching metal roofs and various low concrete walls and platforms to give the restaurant a footprint.  The women who run it know us well and smile knowingly when my children order green curry with only broccoli for the fifth time.  We tip well. (tipping in not expected in Thailand, but there is a tip box and we put 20 baht into it)

Jack is into “spicy” and asks for it when we dine out but I do not believe the staff actually make his food as hot as they could.  Addie has been into ordering a random dish off the menu (recognizable of course and in english) and she is so proud of herself for being adventurous and trying new things.  In her words, “It always turns out so good!”

Northern Thai khao soi is originally a Burmese dish that is popular here as a street dish.  It is a smokey coconut curry broth filled with boiled hand cut egg noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, limes, ground chillies and meat (or vegetarian)  There are crisp deep-fried egg noodles that decorate the top and add a nice crunch.  It is our new favorite (60 baht or so).

We eat Som Tam daily.  It is  a spicy, savory green papaya salad made from shredded unripe papaya.  This dish combines sour lime, hot chili, savory fish sauce and palm sugar.  The ingredients are pounded in a large mortar and pestle.  Despite the use of papaya, which one may think of as sweet, this salad is actually savory. When not yet ripe, papaya has a slightly tangy flavor. The texture is crisp and firm, sometimes to the point of crunchiness. It is this that allows the fruit to withstand being beaten in the mortar.  When you order it the preparer makes it to your taste and spiciness level and offers you a spoonful to adjust as needed before it is finished.  The addition of hot bird’s eye chili can make for an eye watering eating experience.  In addition to the papaya, there might be brined rice field crab, asparagus beans, dried shrimp, garlic, tomato and garlic.  Eaten with sticky rice and grilled chicken (a whole roasted chicken can be bought on the street for 120 baht), it is the perfect meal.

There is fried street food and meat that can be purchased for under a dollar.  The kids love fried bananas, you can buy a bag for 20 baht.

Chiang Mai is full of amazing restaurants and Cork loves to research and find them.  We eat well and try to discover a new place every day.  Living here is easy, everyone is very nice and speaks english very well.  We understand why this is a popular place to retire.  Cork and I are already strategizing how we can do the same after the kids go to college.

Sometimes Chiang Mai can feel like Berkeley California–organic food, homemade bread and local coffee.  We enjoy these little escapes into urban hipsterdom.  Although it tends to be on the pricey side (120 baht per meal), you pay for the atmosphere.

Majestic implies an impressive largeness proportionate to scale without sacrifice of dignity.  Elephants are often referred to magnificent majestic beasts.  However placing them on this pedestal negates their other qualities and abilities.  The ability to forgive, patience and tolerance towards humans that are weaker and yet demand obedience.  The obvious joy they experience while playing in the creek, rolling and wrestling with each other like puppies.  The loyalty and caring they have for each other, their family, their enduring memory for loved ones and routes.  In short they are definitely magnificent, they are majestic but so so much more.

I had no expectations of the day.  My only experience with elephants was in a zoo setting, from a distance.  We spent all day with these animals.  I was able to feed them, touch them, swim with them and walk through the jungle alongside them.  We saw them play in the river and rip small trees out of the ground and carry them like large pull toys through the forest.  I was able to stand, and look into the huge heavily lashed eye of a 60-year-old grandmother and just be with her, forehead to forehead.  I did not hold strong feelings about elephants before this experience.  That has changed.  I have changed.  Now I understand.  I was able to really see them.  The more I learn about them, their capacity for grief, learning, communication and long memory, the deepening sadness I feel as I watch in real-time their habitat diminishing.  Most elephants in SE Asia live in captivity and sanctuaries, their numbers are 50,000 (50%  of that number live in India) down from over 300,000 one hundred years ago in the wild.  Logging, development and human encroachment have stolen their jungle, their home. 

There has never been a more dangerous time to be an elephant.  They are on the path to extinction.  New Chinese wealth is financing a hunger for ivory that threatens to bring an end to wild elephants within our lifetime.  The global ivory trade is still killing over 20,000 African elephants yearly for their tusks, and the illegal poaching often leads to a land grab and development once the large animals are removed from the profitable forest.  The unregulated ivory trade in Vietnam, China, Myanmar, Thailand and Malaysia meet the demand of the Chinese market. The dwindling  habitat is leading to dangerous confrontations between people and elephants, leading to revenge killing and the poisoning of elephants.  The USA is the second largest market for illegal ivory after China.

Tourism is a double-edged knife.  It provides a place for these animals in the economy but also puts them to work as a showpiece for tourists.    Luckily in the popular ether, tourism has pushed for ethical responsible Elephant sanctuaries that prohibit riding, chains and abuse.  However, it is very complicated.  As with all things, there is no black and white, only grey.  The sanctuary we chose, the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary got great reviews, and the elephants appeared relatively free and roamed naturally.  The mahouts controlled the elephants with commands and sounds, gentle prodding to get them to go forward.  However this was only our brief experience for the day and I did not do deep research.  The handlers were teenagers and our guide, “Mr.Cool” as he liked to be referred to had only held the job for 5 months and was 19. 

In our day we did not learn very much about elephants or their plight, there was very little education presented.  We were told that when tourism was low there was not enough food to feed the elephants so sometimes they get sick and die from lack of nutrition.  The system is definitely out of balance and as I often do I came away with mixed feelings.  I did appreciate the control that the Mahouts did have as the younger male elephants did appear more feisty and unpredictable.  These are massive animals and could trample a human with little effort.  They are precise with their girth and have the grace and elegance of a much smaller animal.  We saw them balance and find their way through steep rocky terrain with ease.  The day was full and we will forever remember our rich experience with this family of elephants.

Witnessing the plight of elephants in Thailand I have decided to support Save Elephants Foundation found at http://www.saveelephant.org.  They are an active organization in this area that supports habitat preservation, education and rescue.  I will be sharing their posts on my FaceBook timeline.

I am finding that traveling for a long time can be quite lonely.  It is difficult to make friends due to the language and cultural differences.  We all get a bit irritable being with one another 24/7 and need social contacts outside of our family.  Facebook has saved me as we are able to meet with other traveling families who throw me a lifeline when I feel alone.  It is hard to feel miserable and evoke sympathy when one is supposed be having a “trip of a life time.”  Social media only shows the highs of traveling, no one wants to read posts about the lows so these moments are absent.  Meeting and sharing with other families who also are traveling for months or years grants us an opportunity to share and support each other.  Plus the kids get that crucial time to play and be silly.

Through Our Tribe Travels FB group we met Vicki, Mike and their daughters Amy and Izzy.  After meeting we continued to meet daily and have adventures together, movies, swimming, playing in the park and eating many meals.  We all connected beautifully and it was really nice.  It felt good to laugh and relax.  We hope to cross paths again in Cambodia, maybe volunteer together in a village near Siem Reap.

We also had a fun coincidence of meeting our friend Joana who we meet nearly three months ago on Tioman island in Malaysia.  She is from Lisbon, working in Norway as a Sushi chef, and has been traveling in Vietnam and Cambodia since we parted ways.  It was so wonderful to see her again and share travel stories.

We spent a fun day at this 3-D museum called Art in Paradise in Chiang Mai.  It was expensive and hokey, but we got some great photos.  Opened in 2013, its gallery was hand painted by a group of South Korean artists.  It is touted as “interactive art” and needs the participation and imagination of the viewers.

The museum is set up with numerous murals on the walls and floors to create optical illusions for photos.  Trompe-l’œil (French for “deceive the eye“, is an art technique that uses realistic imagery to create the optical illusion that the depicted objects exist in three dimensions. Forced perspective is a comparable illusion in architecture.

We visited with our new friends, fellow traveling family Vicki and her girls Amy and Izzie.  It was a good day.

We arrived in Chiang Mai by train a couple of days ago.  Cork is finally feeling better.  Although still weak from 10 days of illness, he is almost back to normal.  Tropical febrile viruses spread by mosquitos are serious business.  In the developing world these illnesses strike and kill so many people, mostly children and yet there is very little money put into protection or cures.

Chiang Mai is a city in mountainous northern Thailand.  It is a beautiful area, green, lush jungle, mountains.  The city is about 800 years old.  Founded in 1296, it was capital of the independent Lanna Kingdom until 1558. Its Old City area still retains vestiges of walls and moats from its history as a cultural and religious center.  The Old City is a big square surrounded by a high stone wall and within filled with small winding alleys and streets.   Like in a maze it is easy to get lost, but the wall is always your safety marker.  Around every corner there is a temple.  Chiang Mai si home to hundreds of elaborate Buddhist temples, including 14th-century Wat Phra Singh and 15th-century Wat Chedi Luang, adorned with carved serpents.