Magic Key into the door of Laos

Finding someone to take the time to invite you into the inner realms of thier culture is difficult. Almost impossible. However, we have eeked our way into a few experiences that are rich and fulfilling, and although simple, give us a glimpse into real life. As a tourist and foriegner you always hover around the outer sphere of local life, never quite understanding the inner layers of the cultural strata. But if you find that guide, generous in spirit and energy , having the power to unlock and willingness to open the door, they are the magic key we seek. We find that if you stay in one place long enough, you are able to make those connections with people and are invited into those corners that you only see after going down the same street ten times. Our favorite restaurant, Phonheuang, nick named by us,The Bo Bun, after our favorite dish. It is a place that we frequent almost daily and have become regulars.

We love the Bo Bun, a bowl of rice noodles, greens and spring rolls that is addictive. For 20,000 kip ( 2.75$)

It is a family run business, the cooking done by the mother and aunt, the front of the house hosted by Vanvisa, or who goes by “Khaek”.

We have gotten to know Khaek, and after many interactions, she graciously offered to take me and Addie to go shopping for a traditional Lao skirt. Excited, I jumped at her offer. The next day we met at the restaurant and went in her car to the Phosi Market, a local market that sells fabric, clothes and other essentials. With Khaek leading us we sorted through stacks of fabric, sorted through many styles and gathered many helpers in our quest. After finding the fabric, we then brought it to a seamstress who took my measurements and promised to have it ready in one hour. As we walked through the maze of the market and by groups of women sitting with thier wares, and they stared at Addie, with her Lao outfit and murmured ” nagm rai” smiling and laughing, “very beautiful”. It was a window into daily life and we were lucky to be granted the experience. I love my skirt. It fits perfectly and is narrow and slimming, however the genius of the Lao design has it wrap in front, gathering in front of your legs to allow room for walking and movement. I learned a lot about our favorite waitress Khaek.

She is 34, attended University and studied Business. She was born in the same house as the restuarant, which has only been in business for one year. Her mother told her from early on to ignore everything and just focus on studying. Her mother and aunt run the kitchen, and though she knows how to cook, she prefers not to. She is a world traveler and visits a country for a month every year, visiting France and Italy, wanting to visit Germany or the Maldives this year and the next. We invited her to visit us in Oregon, but apparently Visas are quite difficult to get to the United States. We have spent a long time in Luang Prabang, some would say too long, almost three weeks. However, a place really gets into your heart and body if you sink into it, and now our memory of Luang Prabang is solid.