“The Root in between two Stones”

 

We have been transported to very different world.

Nepal.  Located between India and Tibet.  Nicknamed the “roof of the world” paying tribute to its high elevation and the Himalayas.

The miracle of air travel makes these transitions even more jarring.  In fact the moonscape of Kathmandu, a city consisting of buildings emerging from cement rubble, pot holed muddy streets heavy with honking traffic and women wearing colorful traditional clothing traversing the complicated terrain,  contrasts sharply from the Western cosmopolitan Kuala Lumpur.  It is like the 2015 earthquake happened last month and the city wages war with cement dust , ultimately failing.  Defunct water systems and roadways abound.  We are caught off guard by the similarity to a war zone this city resembles.  I am sure people from Yemen and Syria would roll their eyes at us, but perspective is all relative.

Evidence of people living in Kathmandu date back to 300bc.  The oldest firmly dated building in the earthquake-prone valley is almost 1,992 years old.  This area is rich with Buddhist spirituality and culture.  Nepal is a young country and unfortunately many of the young people go abroad to work.  The level of poverty and pollution in Kathmandu caught us off guard.  On our travels, we have been surprised how smog, can prevail even the countryside.  In Oregon, we only had to confront air pollution during the summer fires.  Imagine if every day were like that?  Unless there is tighter regulation on industry and vehicle emissions, the air pollution that plagues the world is only going to spread.  In the United States, I feel like I was quite isolated from these problems and largely unaware.  Now the abstract has become real.

We are staying in a homestay, living in a room in a family home.  Santu and Lasang are our hosts.  Thier warmth and amazing food has made the adjustment to cold showers and frigid night temperatures easier to bear.  Every night we eat Dahl Bat with the family and sweet tea.  In the morning we have curry potatoes and chapatis.  Our food is flavorful, vegetarian and served hot on heavy brass plates and bowls.  I am in culinary heaven.

Despite our chaotic and dusty surroundings, we are enjoying Nepal.  The Nepalese people are genuine and friendly.  They love our kids and are always concerned with their welfare and happiness.  The food is layered with complimentary spices and the culture mirrors the food, interesting, enormously nuanced and steeped in tradition and history.